DPedal Build Instructions
Parts
Note: The official micro USB version of the Pico will also work fine, but I recommend the unofficial USB C clone,
since USB C is a nicer connector. Just make sure to get one that matches the dimensions of the official Pico,
including the components on the pico which can be placed differently in some clones.
Tools
| Tool |
Link |
Notes |
| 3D printer |
|
I personally have a Prusa mini, but these days the Bambu Lab P1S is a much better option. |
| Soldering iron |
|
I personally have a Hakko FX-888D, but a Pinecil or similar is a better budget option. |
| 3M Hex key |
Amazon
|
|
Ordering PCB
- Download dpedal_gerber_files.zip.
- Go to JLCPCB, click "Add gerber file" and upload the
dpedal_gerber_files.zip you just downloaded
- Set the following options, leaving the rest as default:
- Surface finish: LeadFree HASL
- PCB thickness 1.2mm
- PCB Color: whatever you want
- Complete order. You probably want "Global Standard Direct Line" for shipping.
Printing
Download the STLs here.
Then slice and print each STL yourself, or upload to a printing
service.
Slicing configuration for each part:
- default orientation with no supports
- layer height: 0.10mm (The model is very precise, so don't go any higher than this)
- infill: 15% grid infill (I just use grid because its the default, any infill type is probably fine)
- Filament: I use PLA but any hard filament should work fine.
Soldering
If its your first time soldering, iFixit has a nice
introduction. They stress the importance of flux, and while flux is important, the soldering required for this
project is simple enough you can get away with skipping it. You should also learn about iron tip maintenance.
For lead-free solder I reccommend setting your iron to 350 degrees.
- Take the printed jig and Pico.
- Connect printed jig into the Pico via the through holes and pins
- Connect Pico to the PCB via the jig, it may need to be pushed until clicking into place. The Pico should sit
secure and flatly on the PCB. Make sure the orientation matches the image, the "DPedal V3" text should NOT be
visible on the PCB.
- NOTE: If the Pico is not sitting flat against the PCB, some masking tape can be used to secure it.
- Solder Pico to the PCB. For every pad on the PCB, heat both the pad on the Pico and the pad on the PCB with the
tip of the soldering iron, while feeding solder into the point where the iron and two pads connect.
- WARNING: The solder should not form large blobs on top of the Pico or you may have trouble fitting the PCB into
the case.
- NOTE: Having this many small pads close together may sound tricky with risk of shorting adjacent pads, in
reality as long as you use only a minimal amount of solder, its not too bad as solder will want to stick to the
hot metal
surfaces and avoid the green PCB surface. However if you do manage to join some adjacent pads, you might find solder wick helpful.
- Place hotswap sockets into their holes on the PCB and solder the sockets to the PCB: Heat the ends of the
socket and the pad on the PCB with the iron, while feeding solder into the point where the iron, PCB pad and socket
end
meet.
Flashing firmware
- Start holding down the bootsel button. Do not let go.
- Connect the Pico/PCB to your computer via USB.
- Let go of the bootsel button.
- Follow the steps below depending on your OS:
- macOS
- Download the firmware
(arm host)
and unzip.
- Open a terminal to the directory containing the firmware and run
./dpedalflash
- Windows
- Download the firmware
(UF2 file)
- The Pico should present itself as an extra drive. Click and drag the downloaded dpedal_firmware.uf2 onto the
Pico's drive
- Linux
- Download the firmware
(x86 host)
and unzip.
- open a terminal to the directory containing the firmware and run
./dpedalflash
- Insert a switch into each socket
- WARNING: the orientation of the pins is different for each socket, make sure the switch is oriented correctly as
you insert it.
- Open this page and test each button works, the default button mapping of the DPedal
has mouse scroll on the dpad and page up/down on the left/right buttons.
-
If the pedal is not working as expected, go back and examine your solder joints for cases where the joint is not
sufficient for connectivity or is shorting with an adjacent joint.
- Unplug from the computer and disconnect the switches again, to prepare for the next stage.
Assembling
- Place PCB into the base part with the hole for the USB port.
- Place switch plate on top of the PCB
- Place 4 screws through the switch plate and base.
- For each screw, hold a square nut behind it and screw them together.
- Push all 6 switches into their sockets until they click into place.
- WARNING: the orientation of the pins is different for each socket, make sure the switch is oriented correctly as
you insert it.
- Put the dpad between the two base pieces and push the pieces together.
- Screw the remaining base part to the switch plate, using 4 screws and 4 nuts.
- Push the 2 buttons into the 2 empty switches
Finished!
Your DPedal is now fully assembled and ready to use.
Slot in the footrest when using it.
If you want to change the keyboard/mouse mapping you can use the web configurator.
Community
Something not working out? Or want to share the results of a successful build?
Join the Discord!