DPedal Build Instructions

Tools

Tool	Required	Link	Notes
3D printer	Optional		I personally have a Prusa mini, but these days the Bambu Lab P1S is a much better option.
Soldering iron	Required		I personally have a Hakko FX-888D, but a Pinecil or similar is a better budget option.
M3 Hex key or screwdriver	Required	Amazon hex-key set
Helping hands	Helpful	Omnifixo	You can definitely complete this project without helping hands, but it'll make soldering easier

Standard Parts

Part	Quantity	Link
Raspberry Pi Pico 1 USB C clone (headerless)	1	Amazon, AliExpress
2m USB C<->A cable	1	Amazon
8mm M3 machine screws	8	AliExpress
M3 square nuts	8	AliExpress
white choc v1 switches	6	AliExpress
choc v1 hotswap sockets	6	AliExpress
Solder	a bit	Amazon

Note: The official micro USB version of the Pico will also work fine, but I recommend the unofficial USB C clone, since USB C is a nicer connector. Just make sure to get one that matches the dimensions of the official Pico, including the components on the pico which can be placed differently in some clones.

Printed Parts

First download the STLs here. Then find a way to print them.

You can choose to print these parts at home or via a printing service like JLC.

Part	Quantity	Method
Footrest	1	Home FDM or order from JLC
Base With Pico	1	Home FDM or order from JLC
Base Without Pico	1	Home FDM or order from JLC
Switch Plate	1	Home FDM or order from JLC
Soldering Jig	1	Home FDM or order from JLC
Keycap	2	Recommended to order a resin print from JLC, as most home FDM filaments will produce brittle pins that snap off. However, there is a separate STL file optimized for FDM printing if you want to try.
Dpad	1	Recommended to match "Button Keycap" method for aesthetic purposes.

Ordering Printed Parts

Download the STLs here, and extract them from the zip file.
For each part to be ordered

Go to JLC3DP
Click "Add 3D files" and upload the STL for the part.
Set "3D technology" + "Material"

The following are known to be suitable for the button keycaps + dpad

SLA(Resin) -> Black Resin

Set "Qty" as per above table
Set "Product Desc" to:

"Office Appliance and Accessories" -> "Plastic Keycaps" (for keycaps + dpad)
"Office Appliance and Accessories" -> "Plastic Keyboard Enclosure" (for everything else)

Save to cart

Complete the next section about ordering the PCB before completing the order. This will save on shipping cost by shipping the PCB and printed parts together.

Ordering the PCB

DPedal uses a custom PCB which must be ordered from a PCB manufacturer.

Download the dpedal_gerber_files.zip, do not extract it.
Go to JLCPCB, click "Add gerber file" and upload the dpedal_gerber_files.zip
Set the following options, leaving the rest as default:

Surface finish: LeadFree HASL
PCB thickness 1.2mm
PCB Color: whatever you want

Save to cart.
Check out your order.

You probably want "Global Standard Direct Line" for shipping.
Make sure all printed parts in your cart are included in the order.

Printing at home

Any printed parts that you didnt order from a service will need to be printed at home.

Download the STLs here.

Then slice and print each part with the following configuration:

default orientation with no supports
layer height: 0.10mm (The model is very precise, so don't go any higher than this)
infill: 15% grid infill (I just use grid because its the default, any infill type is probably fine)
Filament: I use PLA but any hard filament should work fine.

Time Passes

Wait patiently (or impatiently) for the various orders to arrive.

Soldering

If its your first time soldering, iFixit has a nice introduction. They stress the importance of flux, and while flux is important, the soldering required for this project is simple enough you can get away with skipping it. You should also learn about iron tip maintenance.

For lead-free solder I reccommend setting your iron to 350 degrees.

Take the soldering jig and Pico.

Connect soldering jig into the Pico via the through holes and pins

Connect Pico to the PCB via the jig, it may need to be pushed until clicking into place. The Pico should sit secure and flatly on the PCB. Make sure the orientation matches the image.

NOTE: If the Pico is not sitting flat against the PCB, some masking tape can be used to secure it.

Solder Pico to the PCB. For every pad on the PCB, heat both the pad on the Pico and the pad on the PCB with the tip of the soldering iron, while feeding solder into the point where the iron and two pads connect.

WARNING: The solder should not form large blobs on top of the Pico or you may have trouble fitting the PCB into the case.
NOTE: Having this many small pads close together may sound tricky with risk of shorting adjacent pads, in reality as long as you use only a minimal amount of solder, its not too bad as solder will want to stick to the hot metal surfaces and avoid the green PCB surface. However if you do manage to join some adjacent pads, you might find solder wick helpful.

Place hotswap sockets into their holes on the PCB and solder the sockets to the PCB: Heat the ends of the socket and the pad on the PCB with the iron, while feeding solder into the point where the iron, PCB pad and socket end meet.

Flashing firmware

Start holding down the bootsel button. Do not let go.

Connect the Pico/PCB to your computer via USB.

Let go of the bootsel button.

Follow the steps below depending on your OS:

macOS

Download the firmware (arm host) and unzip.
Open a terminal to the directory containing the firmware and run ./dpedalflash

Windows

Download the firmware (UF2 file)
The Pico should present itself as an extra drive. Click and drag the downloaded dpedal_firmware.uf2 onto the Pico's drive

Linux

Download the firmware (x86 host) and unzip.
open a terminal to the directory containing the firmware and run ./dpedalflash

Insert a switch into each socket

WARNING: the orientation of the pins is different for each socket, make sure the switch is oriented correctly as you insert it.

Open this page and test each button works, the default button mapping of the DPedal has mouse scroll on the dpad and page up/down on the left/right buttons.

If the pedal is not working as expected, go back and examine your solder joints for cases where the joint is not sufficient for connectivity or is shorting with an adjacent joint.